GARESSIO, a hamlet between past and present

From “Porta Rose” gate to the town hall

Entering this old hamlet visitors are welcomed by the “Porta Rose” gate, located at the confluence of the two streams called Rio San Giacomo and Rio San Mauro. It is said that, in the 16th century during a violent battle against the Spaniards, Garessio’s inhabitants spilled so much blood that even the streams lost their names, giving birth to the one now called Malasangue. “Porta Rose” gate was the entrance to the ancient hamlet, which was accessed by a drawbridge placed between two towers, one of which is still visible today. According to a legend a lady threw a red rose at an enemy knight from the slit, but when the man picked it up and placed it close to his chest, a hiss cut through the air and an arrow struck him in the heart, thus mixing the red of blood with that of the flower's petals. A rose plant has adorned that tower ever since and blossomed every year. Walking along today's “Via Cavour” - once called “contrada maestra” - you can admire picturesque views and medieval stone and terracotta facades. The large building with columns on the façade and topped by a mighty tower with a clock, is now the town hall. From the portico which houses the War Memorial, visitors can access a small museum where archaeological finds from local caves recall the ancient presence of humans and animals in this region. Here on display there are also tombstones from Roman times as well as numerous fragments of frescoes detached from the Cerisola chapel, which was painted by Segurano Cigna in 1461.

“San Giovanni” church

As you enter the old town centre, you cannot help but stop and admire both the delightful “San Giovanni” square and the church with the same name located in the background on top of a flight of steps. In 1938, Giorgetto Giugiaro, one of the most important interpreters of the Italian design with a particular attention to the automotive field, was born in the pretty little house to the left of this church. We owe his genius the current layout of this square, which is characterised by trompe-l'oeil paintings on the buildings as well as its black and white pebble paving. The confraternity of “San Giovanni”, also called “Misericordia”, was built in the 16th century on the rocky outcrop called “Bricco”. The inscription on the portal inform us that it was completed in 1593. The single-nave interior is decorated with eighteen lunettes depicting the life of the saint. They were frescoed in 1681 and are attributed to the painter named Enrietto Ferrino. The Baroque plaster altarpiece is of great value. At this church, the most important and heartfelt tradition of Garessio has been repeated every four years for three centuries: the Mortorio, Sacred Recitation and Representation of the Passion and Death of Our Lord Jesus Christ. The paintings on the walls, also by Giugiaro, refer to this ancient tradition: the characters represented have the faces of the inhabitants of Garessio who have taken part in the Mortorio over time.

Walking through the ancient hamlet

Walking along the narrow streets of the old town centre, Garessio shows all its ancient character through its gates, bridges and churches, which hark back to its distant past. For centuries, travellers, pilgrims and merchants in transit from Piedmont to Liguria passed under the large stone arches of Porta Jhape and Porta Liazoliorum. The apparently exotic names of these places actually refer to the local dialect: 'Jhape' seems to derive from 'chiappe' or 'lose'- the stone slabs, while 'Liazoliorum' refers to the Viassolo family who lived here, guarding the gate and collecting tolls. The church of “Santa Maria extra Moenia” stands at the far end of the town, beyond the stone bridge over the Rio Mauro stream. It is considered one of the oldest churches in the town being documented as early as the 11th century. Although the transformations of the last century have profoundly altered its original appearance, we can still admire traces of the medieval past of this church in both its portal, which is now filled in, and its soaring bell tower, which was erected by the masters Bellino and Amedeo in 1448.

The “Assunta” parish church

The walk along the Rio Mauro stream is dominated by the imposing bulk of the “Borgo Maggiore” parish church dedicated to Our Lady of the Assumption. The convent of “San Domenico” had been located here since the end of the 15th century, but it was later renovated to a design by the Monregalese architect Francesco Gallo. The costruction of new church begun in 1717 and it was consecrated in 1728. With the Napoleonic suppressions, the Dominicans were driven out and the sacred furnishings removed. The church was sold and its body was so heavily damaged that in 1870 it was almost completely rebuilt by archpriest Unia following Gallo's design. Today its beautiful brick façade with the airy arcade is the best preserved original part. The interior is spacious and bright and it is characterised by an organ by the Serassi brothers dating back to 1829, the imposing altars, the elegant 18th-century statues as well as the canvases depicting the Assumption of Mary, painted by Vinaj, and the Glory of St Dominic, coming from the old convent. The body of Blessed Caterina Mattei da Racconigi has rested here since 1548.

Chestnuts and water

One of Garessio's greatest fortunes has been its richness in pure, therapeutic water, which has made it a famous holiday resort since the 1920s. The crystal-clear water flows around the village and gushes from the numerous fountains scattered around its narrow streets. Another great resource of this area is the “garessina” chestnut, which is widely cultivated and processed throughout the Upper Tanaro Valley as well as the Mongia, Bormida, Casotto and Pennavaire valleys. This chestnut variety is well-known for its sweetness and delicacy. It is a white chestnut with an excellent flavour and, according to experts, it is the best dry chestnut ever, being processed according to an ancient process handed down for centuries.

The “Casotto” castle

One of the first Carthusian monasteries in the Italian history arose in this area surrounded by greenery. Even before the year 1000 a group of hermits settled here to pray in meditation, but it was only after 1172 that they began a monastic life according to the Carthusian rule. According to a local tradition this happened because of St Bruno’s passage here on his way to Rome, but this version is not confirmed by any document. In 1183, thanks to donations from the lords of Garessio, the Carthusian monastery of “Santa Maria del Casotto” was founded. The building was founded in the 11th century and then renovated and extended in the 18th century. After the Napoleonic plundering, the ancient monastery fell into ruin. In 1847 the structure was purchased by the House of Savoy and renovated, accentuating its castle-villa appearance. This place was particularly loved by Victor Emmanuel II, who attended it as a hunting reserve. The complex consists of a central body and two advanced wings and it has a monumental appearance that contrasts with the sobriety and private character of the interiors, which are still furnished and can be visited. This royal palace is owned by the Piedmont Region and is included in the network of the Savoy Residences, which have been a Unesco World Heritage Site since 1997.

CREDITS

Direction: Paolo Ansaldi
Post-Production: VDEA Produzioni
Translation: Europa 92
Copywrite and research: Laura Marino